Caveat: This based upon mine own emperical knowledge and personal experience!

Note: the dimensions noted are for vessels over 25 feet. Scaling some of the dimensions to fit a smaller craft should be no problem.

Wood for Battens: Eastern White Pine, True Mahogony, Alaska Yellow Cedar, Port Orford Cedar, Douglas Fir ( old growth if possible) , are to be preferred. Rarely hardwoods for battens of length. Ash is fine for short ones say 6 to 8 feet. Shorter lengths of most any wood can be used for say diagonals or places where there is no curve.

Lengths:

Sheer= 1/2 x 2 inch and longer by several feet over both perpendiculars.

Waterlines= 1/2 x 1 1/4 inches with a TAPER on both ends. Taper allows the batten to tuck up a bit at the forward and aft sweeps.

Body Plan= 1/2 x 1/2 inch with if possible a thinner center to flex around the lines.

Long lengths are spliced with about a 1 in 12 splice. The glued up splice is made proud and planed or scraped down to final dimension. No rivets or nails through the splice. You want it to be as flexible and fair as the rest of the batten. Weldwood Plastic Resin glue was favoured but later on we did use the yellow stuff even though there were rumours that it creeps under load. Cannot recall ever seeing that myself. Nails are driven along side the batten NEVER through the batten. Initially blocks of steel, edges smoothed off with felt or neoprene glued to the bottom would be used to nudge the batten into fair. After lots of squinting and bending over and looking at the line, it would be nailed( alongside!)to the loft floor. Sometimes a pail of awls would be used to set the batten in place but usually it was the nails alongside the batten. Blue Plaster nails were mostly used for this work. Thinner shank and being dark blue or black did not cast another distraction to the eye. Lines were drawn with drafting pencils and artists colour pencils NEVER pens or marking pens. Reason? Those inks would bleed through the paint when the floor was prepped for the next job. Oil based paint in palest grey or white tinted with black was used. Natural light or fluorescent light was preferred over incandescent. Incandescent casts shadows don'cha know.

As mentioned before, I have used battens 1 x 3 inch x 40 FEET long out in the field. Took most all the layout crew to 'conga line' that batten out to the hull. Approximate measurements were taken, soapstone marks were made on the steel plate, clips were tacked on, batten set in clips, wood wedges used between batten and clip to raise batten to line marked. Leadman would stand back, waaay back, look at the line and with hand signals indicate which wedges needed to be snugged up or slacked off to bring batten into a fair line. After much squinting and after everyone had a chance to look at the line and add their approval, a soapstone line was drawn on the plate. The batten removed and 'conga lined' back to the loft and the layout people assigned to that section would then punch dimples in the plate along the line at about 3 or 4 inch intervals. Then the section became the domain of the ship fitters and burners under the watchful eye of the layout person.

Right handed people it is best to look at long lines on the loft floor through your legs backwards...Picture the cartoon with the fellow kissing his arse goodbye, if ya get my drift? Left handed people don't need to look at the line this way. Something about Right brain vs Left brain. Believe me, it does make a difference. When in 'white hat' mode, I would use my left handed people for layout and special fitting jobs. Rightys, unless old pharts like me, didn't have the training or experience to over come that brain thing.

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