Chapter One

Caveat: These are solely my opinions and observations based upon my own experiences. They reflect no one elses.

Above All...Think Safety At All Times When Operating or Working on a Table Saw!!!!

1. Carefully inspect all fastenings on your machine. Every bolt, screw, nut and make sure they are tight to specs. If you own a second or third hand machine without a manual. Contact the maker for a manual. Make note of the model number and serial number from the makers plate on the machine prior to calling or include this info when writing to the maker.

NOTE: Another source for information on older machinery is the Old Woodworking Machinery web site and Forums.

2. Table top alignment. The saw table must be in as perfect alignment to the saw arbor as is possible. The reference point for this is the relationship between the Left Side table slot and the saw arbor. This is done by checking the distance of ONE particular saw tooth at the front of the blade opening vs.the distance of that same saw tooth to the table slot at the rear of the blade opening.

In other words you are using the INSIDE EDGE of the Left Hand Table Slot ( the groove that the mitre guage bar fits in ) as the reference point. Using this edge you take a measurement from ONE particular saw tooth or if a TCT blade, a point directly below one particular tooth. Mark that spot and rotate the blade 180 degrees so that that tooth is now at the REAR of the blade opening closest to the rear of the table top. Take measurements at both locations and compare them. ANY difference over a 32nd of an inch means that you have to re-adjust the table top to saw arbor connection. OM most machines will have the saw arbor connected to the table top by a number of machine screws. Refer to that manual and its diagrams for details particular to your saw model.

DO NOT use a tape measure for this! Tapes are notoriously inaccurate when used for fine measurements ie; anything less than a 16thof an inch. (An aside: in the mold loft all the loftsmen used ONE particular brand of tape for general measurements both pocket tapes and tape reels. Lufkin was a favourite.)

I would suggest you invest in a straight edge with measurements to a 32nd of an inch , a 2 or 3 foot model should be adequate and, use that for all machine setups. There are a number of straight edges on the market at reasonable prices these days. Measuring the saw slot to blade difference is just one of the uses. Checking jointer tables, flatness of table tops, and in the longer sizes the co-planar relationship between band saw wheels.

3. Saw fence alignment. In my opinion the newer forms of fence design have it all over the old traditional metal fence hung on round tubing front and rear. Though in truth for many years damn fine work came from machines so equipped. How was this done? It was done by setting up the fence accurately and finessing its poor points!

Older style fences have a decent clamp on the front tube but a terrible one on the rear. All sorts of gizmos have been used to overcome that difficiency. Sliding bars to clamp onto the top and abut the fence at the rear, some were metal and others were wood, reworking the threaded rod that runs the length of the fence and the semi-circular clamp that afixes it the rear tube amongst others.

No matter what fence your table saw is equipped with they ALL need to be adjusted to perform well. The biggest controversy I see in discussions is advice that the fence should be absolutely parallel to that LEFT HAND table slot.

NOT SO! The rear of the fence is best set back from parallel. Most popular way was the use of a Bicycle brand playing card. Bicycle cards are approx. .010 to .011 of an inch in thickness. They are my choice too. Normally that is enough of a difference to prevent binding.

However in heavy duty ripping for example, prepping stock for laminating, other steps may have to be taken to prevent potentially dangerous binding. New machines will come with a blade guard and a riving knife. Blade guard is self explanitory. A RIVING knife is a device for preventing binding when ripping. Unfortunately most riving knives are more a hinderance than a help. The only one I have used that, in my judgement, worked well is the SUVA type on European made table saws. It worked and worked well!

Regarding blade guards...let your skill level and conscience be your guide with this device.

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