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The majority of Raptor "flutter" is caused by crooked head blocks! I had this "jig" built so we could locate the exact center then line bore and ream out the hole in a milling machine. We then steel sleeve it for a snug fit on the mainshaft, and presto, no more flutter! An easy way to check if your block is crooked is to measure the height of each blade tip (static tracking). They should be the same. I have yet to find a plastic head block which is molded accurately. If your head block is "crooked" but you dont experience flutter, your control system and servos are still enduring unnecessary forces, resulting in wear and tear!
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This is the ULTIMATE PADDLE ALIGNMENT TOOL. I bought these Robbe paddle gauges, (eye balling isn't close enough for me), so, I had levels accurately attached to the gauges. We set up a totally level surface at my friends machine shop and attached the levels in refrence to the centers of each gauge. Read on for details on the "swash plate tool", which is also pictured above.
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I'm very particular about runout and balance, especially when it's the fan or clutch that's spinning at around 16000 rpm. I had this threaded adapter made so I could balance the fan accurately. This tool "locates" the fan (as would the crankshaft) so you can also see any wobble while spinning on the highpoint balancer.
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Here's the fan and "adapter" mounted on the highpoint balancer. Just "sandwiching" the fan between the cones is not accurate enough to see runout. The fan would need to have a taper cut on each side so the cones could seat properly. I have another adapter which is used in a lathe to accurately dial indicate if I see alot of runout while spinning it on the highpoint.
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Here's my "swash-plate tool". Not only does it accurately locate the swashplate perpendicular to the main shaft, it also has a level installed so you can level the mainshaft. I also had a "bulls-eye" level flush mounted on top which is very sensative. This tool was made using a lathe and milling machine, very accurate. Also shown above is a metal head block, which may be the only option for those with crooked head blocks. The machining of my "jig" to bore, ream and sleeve the stock head took alot of time, and would be rather expensive unless you own a machine shop or know someone who does.
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Here's the paddle gauges and swashplate tool in use. You place the swashplate tool on the mainshaft, tighten the screw which locates the tool perpendicular to the mainshaft. Push the swashplate down flat against the top and level the helicopter. You then use the flybar paddle gauges and adjust the paddles until all 3 bubble levels match. This degree of accuracy will take unnecessary strain off your control system and servos as opposed to running your heli with misaligned paddles. You would be suprised how many people think their paddles are aligned until I use these tools on their heli and show them otherwise :+)
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