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The process of dyeing fiber and fabric can be easily be divided into to
two categories, domestic (craft) dyeing and trade (industrial) dyeing. Craft
dyeing was largely practiced in the home. The dyestuffs themselves were
mainly what was collected locally. The mordants were simple and the methods
were sometimes very superstitious is nature.
By 1084, imported dyes were being purchased along with mordants from merchants;
but only in the major trade cities. The first evidence is that existing
trade manifests begin to list imported dyestuffs. By the late 1300's, the
laws regulating the movement of these shipments, and trade agreements concerning
the dyes and their manufacture, are evidence of the beginning of a sophisticated
use of these items.
As the centuries progressed, the art of dyeing, like textile production
and garment construction, became a skilled process which led to the formation
of the guilds. Several of the european countries would compete for business
and would eventually begin to specialize in the production of certain colors.
The methods used to produce these colors become "trade secrets" and the
guilds fought to protect them. They were very successful at this until the
1500's when the first pamphlets were produced and many of these secrets
became public.
There are many plants that yield some color when treated properly and used
in large quantities. From period dyeing pamphlets we find that the professional
renaissance dyer mostly concerned himself with the more costly, imported
dyes. Madder and woad were grown on the continent and were traded heavily
throughout Europe. Many others were imported from the middle east and the
orient. These include kermes, cochenial, brazilwood, logwood, red sandalwoods,
saffron, and cutch. These dyes were used primarily by professional dyers
and commanded high prices. |
