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San Jose, CA. Restoration Pictures - 1929 Rolls Royce 20HP Chassis GEN36
(Click On any Picture to Enlarge)
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| Phase one is just like it left the Rolls-Royce plant after a dyno test and test track run. It then went to the coachbuilder for custom body fittment. I completed this phase in May of 2005 when it was entered in the Hillsborough Concours for display only. It was reviewed on the stand during the parade of excellence for non judged cars. | This is just after doing the complex re-fit of the coachwork (minus the doors, wings, and running boards). ....Oct. 2006 | As of Nov. 2006, the doors are being fit in preparation for finish. New glass will be fit after the paint and varnish is done. The car has dual side mount spare tires, fold out windscreen, and sunroof. (see this link for other pictures of this 1929.... |
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| Windshield frame in final fit prior to chrome strip, polish, and plating. Jan 2007 | Leather ($400 worth) headliner being installed. Feb 2007 | A door being polished prior to glass, hardware, and interior panel fitment. Feb 2007 |
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| Exterior Door Handles purchased because the car came to me with mismatched handles. | Jig used to shave Oak strips to a taper for interior window sills, etc. | The resulting Oak stock. |
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| These Orig. Lucas lights were purchased from a fellow in France and were totally fine... ready for prep for re-plating. Thank you internet! | After chrome stripping, the above results are from hand sanding as shown. | The final results prior to plating look like units installed on early 1900 cars. Too sad they have to be plated for a late 20's car. |
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| Prior to the above initial fit of leather headliner, insulation was fit in layers with batting to square it up. This was done in 2006 when the coach was upside down on a revolving spit. | Next, the upholstery backing panels were made and formed to the spaces. Those were padded and then leather applied. | The final results required wood trim around windows and trim pieces as shown. |
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| Rusted Steel! YUCK! This is what I found behind the rear wings ("fenders" here removed) | These are the aluminum rear inner wings that I fabricated and are now ready for leather on the inner hump prior to fitment. | These major tools will be in a compartment just inside the rear door and below the floor hatch. A thin tray of smaller tools will be a lift out just above them. All of these tools tighten themselves into the fittings. |
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| Things are progressing fine with some eye candy. This shows the glove box interior, some interior panels, the windscreen, and the leather wrap to the windscreen surround. | Here you see the seats installed and the windscreen from the outside as well as the turn signal lamps and the vent doors. | OK, with help and advise from RROC list members, you see some of the leather bound wool carpet installed. Feb 2008. |
Door fittment.
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Rear wing fittment with test fit running boards made of common douglas fir.
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Moving right along with the front wings and actual running boards installed. (Sept. 2008) |
Panels between running boards and coachwork are fitted. |
Lucas lights (head and running) shown wirred and fitted. (Oct. 27, 2008) |
Front view. |
And Very Near Done !
With the '29 Calif. Plates |
and on the rear........ |
.....close up |
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..........................The Sections Below........................
Damper Removal From The Car, Damper Disassembly, Head Copper Tube Swage Process
Picture #1 Dynamo Brake Drive Removal (see text >> |
Timing Cover ready for Removal
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Picture #2 Showing the Fan Pulley removed from the 5 bolts that also hold the starting dog nut locking plate |
Picture #3 Showing the fan pulley, lock plate, and serrated nut (LH) removed |
Picture #4 This tool is installed in place of the starter to lock the flywheel and crankcase from turning so the starting dog nut may be removed (RH) see also the tool section Click For RR/B Page
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Picture #5 Showing the marks needed to get the cam timing correct upon re-assembly. It is easier to see what's happening with the starting dog nut removal with the cover off |
Picture #6 The nut is off and the tool installed (five nuts on the fan studs) ready for the removal of the actual damper by applying small and even torque on the outer 5 nuts one at a time . |
The force of the outer piece of the tool is exerted upon the end of the crankshaft while the tool studs pull the damper off the tapered shaft. Mine was on very tight and a loud report (rifle shot) sounded as it broke loose. One would think something broke, but examination showed about 1/8" gap leaving the tool to be removed before the removal of the damper by hand. Observe the rotation of the cam gear as the damper comes off. It is what has to be considered as the gears are reassembled. The following pictures explain the damper disassembly: |
Damper off showing the gear that drives the cam. The outer ring of bolts (16) hold the two halves of the damper rings in place and are installed with springs to adjust the pressure on the friction material inside. These bolts go into threaded holes in the back half and also have lock nuts with cotter pins to hold the desired pressure for the life of the rebuild. |
The inner bolts (8) have
locking tabs and screw into threads in the other side of the assembly.
This shows the other side and detail of the inner and outer bolts. Remove the outer bolts from this side first, split the rings off, and then take the center apart. |
Showing the center and the rings apart. Here you will find worn or missing friction material around the inside of the outer rings..
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 Showing the center assembly apart. Here you will find plenty of oily crud. The springs that apply pressure to the fiber center disks are shown. |
Shown is the center surface that mates with the outer rings after a dress up. Note the inside of the outer rings will require more than a fine paper dressing. One wants to get these smooth and true without removing too much material. |
If you need to further disassemble the center assembly to replace or clean the fiber disks, check the tortional springs, or to clean everything, then you may want to fit snug bolts into the holes as shown. These can be firmly clamped into a vise without clamping the very obviously high tolerance surfaces. |
Keep in mind that when removing the serrated nut (RH), you will be twisting against the springs inside. I used an alloy bar as a drift to gently move the ring a little at a time after bending the locking tab out.
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The brass bolts (#1) shown on the right of this picture are inserted into four holes that go thru to the large ring (#2) to allow force on the smaller ring (#3) which is on a double keyed and tapered shaft. Be sure the brass bolts fit thru with little slop (I used #10 - 24's about 2" long) These will also clean the holes as they are gently hand guided thru. Brass rods of equal length may also be used. Just insert your choice and place the whole setup brass down on a hard level surface and tap the center shaft gently with a non marring mallet or block of wood until separation occurs. |
This is the jig and tools I made to swage (flare) the copper tubes in the head where the pushrods go thru the water passages. |
<<<< Click to enlarge
<<<< Click Here for a document to print out about this procedure..
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E-Me if you have questions:> |
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