




BN 1419 was
originally GN 619 built 10/50. In the 77-80 BN annual it is
classified as
a GP7u upgraded to 1800 hp.
Modeling this one would be quite interesting:
*Long Hood - I'd start with a P2K GP7 Phase I (note the "straps").
1) Remove the set of louvers under the "4" in '1419" and the
matching set on the other side.
2) Add the extra door behind the first set of grills (high up)
3) Stack modifications - note the 4 stacks
4) Scratch build the square weatherization hatch
*Cab - from a short hood GP18 or 20 - work will be needed on the front
windows
- P2K has a single wide window above the cab, 1419 appears to have two
windows
over the low hood, separated by a center post (Didn't Des Plaines or
someone
make a part/mini-kit for this feature?
*Short Hood - _appears_ to be flat, not sloped like the factory short
hood -
cut down the short hood from the GP7 and remove details as necessary.
*Frame - Start with P2K GP18 (GP20 would be an option but there's
additional
filling involved).
1) Remove Louvers from the battery boxes
2) Note that there are two battery box doors under the cab - none of
the P2K
models have this feature - depending on the degree of masachism you
prefer, you
could replace one knuckle buster with two and scribe the one door into
two
3) Fuel and air tanks - P2K GP30 looks like the closest
4) Add
the additional step on each corner of the engine.
5) Straighten out the side of the frame, taking care to leave the fuel
filler
and the (site glass?).
There's probably more that I've missed - perhaps someone who really
knows what
they're talking about can step in and correct any errors or omissions.
BN 1902
and BN 1913 are former NP engines, from NP series 317 - 344
built 8/57 according to the BN Annual.
From the pictures of 1913 - Above the walkway it's a Phase II GP9
including the
single battery box louver forward of the cab
Below the cab the P2K Phase III GP9 has the right frame configuration,
but the
wrong battery box louvers.
The problem is the battery boxes are an integral part of the
walkway/frame. If you are really good at removing and adding
louvers, I
might go with the Phase III frame and rework the louvers. If not,
you can
move the fuel filler on the Phase II and rework the rest of the frame
profile.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out!!
Best regards,
Steve Haas
Sammamish, WA
